[Official] The Proxy Card Thread

[Truman]

Hey everyone.

First off, simply fantastic, all of you. There was a post stating that this is the most exciting facet of the hobby today, and I'm inclined to agree. The creativity displayed here is unbelievable.

Now, on to my question/request.

I am PS illiterate. I cannot get it to do anything for me. I've played around with it, tried to run through tutorials, spent hours trying to just figure it out only to utterly fail in all aspects. Long story short: I R teh suck.

Since I can't do it for myself, I'd like to make a simple request. A few of you have posted that you render your images, save them in groups as a pdf, and then print them from there. I'd simply like to ask if anyone would be gracious enough to send me those pdf's. I'm pretty sure I can blank the foils properly, and can handle getting them printed, cut out, and affixed, so if I could get the image files the last piece of my puzzle would fall into place. I'd be most thankful for any of the new cardface proxies I've seen in the thread (duals, FoW, Mox Diamond, P9, etc.), any of the alternate arts (the Mana Drains I saw were phenomenal), and honestly anything else anyone would be willing to share. If you'd be kind enough to share those image files, please let me know or PM me and I'll get you my email address or whatever you may need.

Thanks.

Edit: PS, if anyone was bored and was willing to make a new cardface Sliver Queen, I and my friend Andy (who I'd be making foil proxies for) would be eternally grateful.

[woogerboy21]

Originally Posted by silvercut

Well, like anything that has a lot of fumes, you should really be using acetone outside or in a well ventilated area anyway...

what ... {cough cough} ... sissy... who .. {cough} ... needs {gasps for breathe} ventilation... {cough cough}

but in all seriousness, definately need ventilation.

[v_amp_iric]

Originally Posted by woogerboy21

what ... {cough cough} ... sissy... who .. {cough} ... needs {gasps for breathe} ventilation... {cough cough}

but in all seriousness, definately need ventilation.

Surgical masks are a good deal of help too, and they make you look funny when you draw a cartoon mouth on them. :P

@Truman

Using Modern (8th Edition) Style by FirePenguinMaster (From here)

Clicking the eye next to any of the layers hide them as you might imagine.

You'll notice the first layer called swatches. When making mana symbols you'll want to use the little eyedrop tool to get the correct color of the circle behind the mana symbol. For instance you would select the green color and type a lowercase o in the green color and G in black to get the symbol for green mana.


-Text
Title - Matrix - 11.2 font size
Mana Cost - Magic Symbols 2008 - 10 font size
Card Type - Matrix - 9 font size
Rules Text - MPlantin (MPlantin-Italic for reminder text and Magic Symbols 2008 for mana symbols.) - 9 font size
P/T - MaxtrixBoldSmallCaps 11 font size
Artist Credit - Magic Symbols 2008 (i in white or black, depending on card color, lowercase L in the other color) Matrix for the artist name. - 6.2 font size

-Frames -> P/T Boxes
Select the one that corresponds to the color of the card, colorless if it's dual colored or gold if multicolor.

-Frames -> WUBRG
This changes the color of the frame between the border and textbox. Select the one that corresponds to the color of the card, or gold if multicolor. Turn on dual-colored textbox overlay if dual colored.

-Frames -> Gold
This changes the color of the frame around the textbox, card type box and title box. Same as usual, select the correct color.

You'll notice that some of the frame layers have "layer masks". This is a layer that you paint on, anywhere you paint black on the mask will not show up, anywhere there is white on the mask, will show up. This is useful for dual/multi-colored cards.

-Frames -> Land
Same as above.

-Frames -> Land -> Basic Land Symbols - Magic Symbols 2008 - 72 font size

-Illustrations
This is where you want to put the image you want to use for your card.

Hope this helps somewhat, and hope that I didn't mess something up. Lol

Edit: Anything I put a - in front of is a folder of layers, just to clarify.

[Sigma0128]

Originally Posted by Alienlover859

So there has been a decent number of questions about blanking lately so I decided I would try and go a bit more in depth on the supplies you need.....


....So I hope this has been informative, and can help some of you little proxy novices on your way to being masters ,After all, you "Gotta' fake 'em all" right?

One thing I'd like to point out. For some reason, Conflux foils blank easier than any others I have tried. It takes barely a drop of acetone, and a small paper towel will blank the whole card in seconds.

I spent minutes on old IPA foils, and newer M10 and Zen can take a while too. And apparently, Timespiral and Lorwyn are nearly immune to acetone in less than mammoth quantities.

Conflux foils ftw, they blank in seconds.

[Truman]

I read a few posts back about stripping the ink off a foil Pokemon card to give a foil proxy a different looking foil effect, and was just wondering if anyone's tried stripping a FTV card for a proxy? I know initially it sounds like a waste of money, but there are at least a couple of the FTV: Dragons cards that are dirt cheap, and since they're supposed to have been done with a special foiling process I was curious if proxies made with them would look better, worse, or just the same.

And thanks for the instructions vamp, I'll take a look and see if I can make it work any better.

[Alienlover859]

I have been meaning to get around to that, but no I have not tried it yet.
That being said if newer foils work then it seems reasonable that at least the new FTV:Exiled would blank. Though there still a bit pricey for a cool effect.

Originally Posted by Truman

I read a few posts back about stripping the ink off a foil Pokemon card to give a foil proxy a different looking foil effect, and was just wondering if anyone's tried stripping a FTV card for a proxy? I know initially it sounds like a waste of money, but there are at least a couple of the FTV: Dragons cards that are dirt cheap, and since they're supposed to have been done with a special foiling process I was curious if proxies made with them would look better, worse, or just the same.

And thanks for the instructions vamp, I'll take a look and see if I can make it work any better.

[Truman]

There's a post on page 2 talking about why the links in the first post of the thread are broken, stating that it should be back and working mid November. At least on my computer they're still broken, was just wondering if they're gonna be fixed or if they're down for good.

[BellyWorms]

Could someone at least rehost the broken picture links, or would anyone be willing to send them to me?

[CXA26483]

Hey all, new to the whole proxy thing, but I really like a lot of the stuff that's been done to the cards...

Can anyone point out to me the significant posts in the thread that explain how to make one of these beautiful cards? I perused it a few times to little avail... I'm pretty well versed in PSCS4 so that's not really a problem... Specifically, how to print the card/what paper/cardstock etc to use, and how to foil it? I like the idea of doing this for a cube a lot...

EDIT:

After I got some more time, I looked through the entire thread, but still really have yet to see a comprehensive post on the subject...

More specifically my questions are as follows (In bold, and my understanding of them is beneath):

If MSE does not supply sufficiently large graphics for proxy's, what program(s) do you use to create the proxy's? Where can you find templates for these proxy's? If you can't find a template, how can you make one? What are the file settings if you do make a template?

Well, looks like Photoshop is the best bet if you have it. Since we can assume that most people do not ($$$), and are not attempting to break the law, GIMP is sufficient as well. It looks like this thread contains links to photoshop documents and fonts which can be used for these cards. However, I'm not sure whether or not they are of sufficient resolution for printing, nor has the thread been updated in quite some time. If you wish to make your own template, I have not found a tutorial on how to do it.

What is the best method for blanking the card? What parts of it do you blank? Can you blank a foil card? What are some things that you need to watch out for when blanking a foil card?

Mixed reviews. Acetone apparently works well because it evaporates quickly (though I have seen people describe varying qualities of Acetone, so I can't be sure). Nail polish remover also works. Never print on a blanked card before it has dried. You can blank a foil card, but this is harder (why, I am not sure). Apparently sandpaper can also somehow be involved...?

What type of printer do you need to print the proxy? Do you print directly onto the card, or do you print onto sticky paper? What type of paper do you use to print on? What printer settings do you use?

Apparently you need a Laser printer which has an in-line tray (no S or C type bend) if you are printing directly onto the card itself. Otherwise, I guess any other type works fine if you are just printing onto sticky paper, however, this will cause the card to be thicker. Clear sticky paper can be used on foil cards, if you have blanked the card first. When you print, > DPI = better. 300-600px (if I remember correctly) is the norm.


As I said, this is just my understanding. IF YOU CAN, PLEASE ELABORATE ON THESE QUESTIONS FOR ME!! I really have only seen extremely vague, or partial responses to the process people are using... I would really appreciate a thorough explanation on these questions, as the only card creation experience I have is with MSE, and I've been experimenting with the 3D life counter idea...

[silvercut]

Laser printers are more for printing text and line drawings. A low cost photo quality inkjet printer would be better. (Higher cost printers mostly just get you faster print speed and not necessarily higher quality.) Just be sure the card is dry before printing, and give it plenty of time to dry after.

[Alienlover859]

What is the best method for blanking the card? What parts of it do you blank? Can you blank a foil card? What are some things that you need to watch out for when blanking a foil card?


What type of printer do you need to print the proxy? Do you print directly onto the card, or do you print onto sticky paper? What type of paper do you use to print on? What printer settings do you use?

Alright first part, Refer to my post on the previous page for materials. As for the how to simply tape the card down trying your best to cover just the borders. Then vigorously rub with a rag that has a healthy dose of acetone on it.

As for the printer, it seems most do it at home. I personally do it at my local office supply store there I have to do practically nothing besides matching the files up right. Leaving me plenty of time to chat up the cute girls that work there.

[CXA26483]

Originally Posted by Alienlover859

I personally do it at my local office supply store there I have to do practically nothing besides matching the files up right. Leaving me plenty of time to chat up the cute girls that work there.

What files? Why do you have to match them up? What paper do you print on, or how do you get the card into the machine to print on? What parts of the card do you blank?

[Singe0255]

I have stumbled upon the mecca of inkjet supply dealers that seems well suited to the proxy card endeavors.

http://texascraft.com/hps/home.php

They have a variety of self-adhesive, clear, photo-quality injet films that would work perfectly in adding our art to freshly blanked foils.

I fully recommend browsing all of the options on their Inkjet printer media.

Some Highlights:

Inkjet Printable Glow in the Dark Sheets (Permanent Adhesive)
imagine our creations as glow in the dark instead of foil?

Inkjet Clear Glossy Vinyl
3.0mil is pretty thin, and self-adhesive to ease the mess of spray adhesives that can be difficult to control.

Transfer Adhesive Sheets
Photo quality adhesive trapped between two thin films. I'm most excited about this product. It can be used to apply an adhesive film to the inkjet side of a transparent sheet, if the card is printed in referse, it will keep the ink safe from smearing, as the ink will be between the card and the film.

I'm placing an order tonight, I'll be testing when I get these products in.

Using an inkjet transparency that is glued to the card has the drawback of adding thickness, but saves on some of the trouble caused by running blank cards through a home printer. I've had some pretty promising results so far.

[Singe0255]

My step by step proxy card process.

Generating the graphics:
I use MSE to first make the cards, then I output the files in png format.
I then edit the png files by re-sourcing the images and importing them into the resized MSE images. It helps to track the resize% used in MSE when adding a picture.

I have been using Paint Shop Pro (I know it sux, but I got it free, so I'm not gonna argue.)

First resize the MSE images by changing the 72dpi to 300dpi.
Then double the image size. (200% resize)

Then, locate your source image file (the one you used to make the card in MSE), resize it to 300dpi as well.

Last, resize the source image using the same % that MSE used, and cut/crop the image over top of the MSE-created image.

This process has the benefit of increasing the detail of the graphics of MSE-created images.

Blanking the foils:

I have learned through trial and error that Conflux foils are easiest to blank. Trust me on this, they are so much easier to blank it's rediculous.

I tape them down along the border using regular scotch tape. It's particularly helpful to keep the original black border on the card as inkjet ink is translucent, and even black ink will shine a little bit.

I use a paper towel with a small drop of acetone to blank the foils. Regular generic paper towels, nothing special here. Stock acetone from the hardware store too.

Carefully peel the tape off the cards. Occasionally, you might peel the foil off the cardstock and end up with a blank white card. This is fine too, that card will be useful for non-foil proxies.

Printing media and settings:

I have been using this product to print my transparencies:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...S&aq=f&oq=&aqi=
I've used it mostly because it was the cheapest, and also because it indeed does dry really quick.

My printer is an HP Photosmart Injet C4480 that I bought a year or two ago.

I use these settings:
Print Type: Normal
Print Quality: Best
Print Media: Regular Paper
Advanced settings:
--Overspray: turned down one notch from default (less overspray)
--Ink Volume: turned up one notch from default (more ink)
I also disable any automatic photo correction software on the printer. (RLT Photo fix, etc)

Once I print out the transparency, I have been taking them to Staples to be laminated on their poster lamenator (ultra thin). This is to protect the ink from smudges or fingerprints. I fully expect my process to change based on the products I'm ordering in my previous post.

Assembly:

Once I have the lamenated sheet, I roughly cut out the cards from the sheet leaving some space around the edges.

I apply an aerosol adhesive to the back of the transparency. This product works well enough:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...5&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

Then, I set the film down, and press a blank foil over onto it.

The hard part is keeping the finished product free of air-bubbles. I've been using a rolling pin (protected by wax paper and/or paper towels) and those squeegees you get for applying screen protectors to electronics to press out any excess glue and to eliminate air bubbles.

Last, I trim the excess transparency & glue off the card with regular scissors.


So far, this has worked surprisingly well for me. I expect my process to change now that I've found this:
http://www.texascraft.com/hps/produc...cat=309&page=1

I will likely eliminate the lamenation step, as well as the rolling pin and spray adhesive. I will print in reverse, then use this product to apply an adhesive film to the ink side of the transparency.

This will remove some of the added thickness that the lamenation process has generated as well as save time from not having to use a spray adhesive.
--------------------------------------------

Well, that's about as detailed as I intend to make this description, I hope that helps.

Oh, and I'll try to add pictures of my work soon.

---------------------------------------------
Testing - I mocked up a Sliver Queen for the earlier poster who requested it.

Spoiler:

[Alienlover859]

Heya guys, just finished up foiling out my buddies cube and thought you all might like to see.

Artifacts

Spoiler:

Lands

Spoiler:

Black

Spoiler:

Blue

Spoiler:

Green

Spoiler:

Red

Spoiler:

White

Spoiler:

Multi-coloured

Spoiler:

And below are just a few of my favorite ones from this batch.

Jungle Lion: This one foil is just so awesome, the foil brings out alot of cool details that you miss in the regular version.

Spoiler:

Imperial Seal: A lot of you may know the alternate art one I have done but when foil this one looks really cool to, something about the way the colours mesh together.

Spoiler:

Recurring Nightmare: Such a bad art on its own when foiled it really brings teh "Nightmares" teeth and eyes out and makes for a really cool foil.

Spoiler:

Sinkhole: Something about alot of beta cards being foil just makes them really cool, but this one in particular I have been intending to do for a long time and it came out quite well, not quite as well as I had hoped but very nice all the same.

Spoiler: